Sahale Snacks May be Spicy

May 22, 2019

***1:45am*** Wake up, Wake-up - time to get moving.

By 2:15am a group of 8 were fording the river for Eldorado. The typical log crossing wasn't there so the night before we realize that fording the creek was our best and least time consuming bet.

An hour and 1100' in we regrouped and learned a member in the party needed non-climb related medical attention for something they had been battling (though not majorly serious). So like that - the day was over.

Or so we thought, At the car, we discussed options. Being 2 cars - Three people were headed back to get medical assistance and at 4:45,"Too Soon" to go back up towards Eldorado the remaining 5 were headed further up cascade river road to try our hand at a May Ascent of Sahale - Typically climbed July - Sept, but what did we have to lose.

We made quick work of the climbers trail to Boston basin and at 5500' transitioned to mountaineering mode. 12-18" of unconsolidated snow with a unsupportable crust from the week prior made for difficult trail breaking. Roped up around 7000' and took the direct route toward the the top. One sagging snow bridge spanned a 20' crevasse and the fresh snow made it hard to identify how supported the bridge was.

We reached the upper ridge around 10:30 and found the top plateau to be a large cornice. Giving it a wide berth, we did a steep and exposed snow traverse towards the true summit. The snow continued to the summit, but was guarded by a massive cornice. We opted not to roll the dice and come back with a safer summit block. Awesome day and fun to have a great fit and capable crew who were able to adapt plans and still climb Sahale 9 hours car to car.After a 2am mulligan