Squamish

 

Description: I heart Squamish!   Squamish has some of the best granite you will find anywhere and its all within very close proximity.  Here you will find great beginner crags to multi-pitch link-ups over 20 pitches.  There is plenty of beta our there, but I will highlight some of my favorite climbs:

​

Smoke Bluffs: 

Mosquito Connection ( mostly 5.8/9) - wonderful 4 pitch link-up, each pitch has a very unique characteristic to it.  Can feel a bit difficult because of that, and its a bit greasy in spots. 

​

Neat and Cool (10a)- fun jungle gym style trad route - can be hard to protect and has fall potential, so worth working that out before gunning for it.  Crux actually happens higher than originally expected. 

​

Flying Circus (10a)- good intro to finger cracks - enough on the face to keep the feet moving. 

​

Octopuss's Garden (5.8):  Splitter 5.8 hands crack with a few other great hands cracks nearby. 

​

Penny Lane (5.9) : solid route that changes characteristics a few times

​

Quarry Man (5.8) - steller5.8 corner system

​

Pop Goes the Raven(10c)  fun stemming problem.  Mostly bolted but a cam downlow helps

​

Laughing Crack and Cat Crack (5.7s) - Great intro routes to hand jamming

​

The Zip ( 10a) - Steep small-hands crack that stays sustained throughout,  unclear if the area is now closed for climbing as the recent guidebook states, but no signs exist. 

​

​

​

Apron: All the routes on the apron are slabs in nature but the rock quality is fantastic

​

Diedre - 6 pitches with the highlight being 2 pitches in this corner system.  Good pin scars provide excellent finger liebacking on smearing feet. 

​

Banana Peel - Really fun slab climbing, and excellent intro to multi-pitch, though there are some traverses that may make a follower nervous as well as some long slab run-outs. 

​

Snake - Step up from Diedre in difficult but similar in nature. 

​

Calculus Crack - mostly moderate climbing with a 5.8 move here and there, long crack is only 5.6. 

 

St. Vitus - Step up from Calculus crack with more difficult crack climbing. 

​

Rock On - Another classic with varying styles of climbing on each pitch.  

​

Chief

Ultimate Everything - Route that just keeps giving, adding this to a route up the apron makes for an upwards of 20 pitch day that keeps you climbing, but never gets too diffcult at 5.9, with a short 10b or 5.9 A0 finish. 

​

Exasporator (10c)- Might be one of the best routes anywhere, with a perfect 10a finger crack P1 and then a thin 10c Pitch 2 that eases after 30' or so, but never truly lets off. 

​

Seasoned in the sun (10b)- another great splitter finger crack not to be missed. 

​

Fern Gully

Good Times (11a) - Sport route that has long balancy moves throughout, but maintain just enough pump to keep it really interesting, and then an overhanging boulder moves gaurds the chains.