South Early Winter Spires

 

Description:  South early is best known for its South Arete route,  This is a great climb for people who are looking for an excellent alpine experience while getting to summit a spectacular spire of rock.  The technical climbing is minimized to the first couple pitches. It also acts as the common descent route for all routes.  I've also done the Southwest Rib several times and absolutely adore that climb. Its a great climb for folks looking to get into some more sustained 5.7/5.8 climbing, as it protects well and has several pitches of relief to ease the nerves.  The technical crux is on Pitch 1 for a few moves and the mental crux is probably the wildly exposed track on pitch 2.  The rock is fantastic. 

 

 

South Arete Climb

Pitch 1 of South Arete

Gully Traverse near the top of the South Arete

Whaleback Feature

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Heading towards the 5.8 crack on SW Rib

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Coming up the 5.8 Crack

Start to Bear hug

Bear Hug Pitch - its shorter than some reports make it sound.

Exposed belay below bear Hug

Easier terrain above Bear hug

Final ridge pitches

Exposure below the Bear Hug

Stories by Scott Heinz ( Medical Moose Labs)

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