Squamish

 

Description: I heart Squamish!   Squamish has some of the best granite you will find anywhere and its all within very close proximity.  Here you will find great beginner crags to multi-pitch link-ups over 20 pitches.  There is plenty of beta our there, but I will highlight some of my favorite climbs:

Smoke Bluffs: 

Mosquito Connection ( mostly 5.8/9) - wonderful 4 pitch link-up, each pitch has a very unique characteristic to it.  Can feel a bit difficult because of that, and its a bit greasy in spots. 

Neat and Cool (10a)- fun jungle gym style trad route - can be hard to protect and has fall potential, so worth working that out before gunning for it.  Crux actually happens higher than originally expected. 

Flying Circus (10a)- good intro to finger cracks - enough on the face to keep the feet moving. 

Octopuss's Garden (5.8):  Splitter 5.8 hands crack with a few other great hands cracks nearby. 

Penny Lane (5.9) : solid route that changes characteristics a few times

Quarry Man (5.8) - steller5.8 corner system

Pop Goes the Raven(10c)  fun stemming problem.  Mostly bolted but a cam downlow helps

Laughing Crack and Cat Crack (5.7s) - Great intro routes to hand jamming

The Zip ( 10a) - Steep small-hands crack that stays sustained throughout,  unclear if the area is now closed for climbing as the recent guidebook states, but no signs exist. 

Apron: All the routes on the apron are slabs in nature but the rock quality is fantastic

Diedre - 6 pitches with the highlight being 2 pitches in this corner system.  Good pin scars provide excellent finger liebacking on smearing feet. 

Banana Peel - Really fun slab climbing, and excellent intro to multi-pitch, though there are some traverses that may make a follower nervous as well as some long slab run-outs. 

Snake - Step up from Diedre in difficult but similar in nature. 

Calculus Crack - mostly moderate climbing with a 5.8 move here and there, long crack is only 5.6. 

 

St. Vitus - Step up from Calculus crack with more difficult crack climbing. 

Rock On - Another classic with varying styles of climbing on each pitch.  

Chief

Ultimate Everything - Route that just keeps giving, adding this to a route up the apron makes for an upwards of 20 pitch day that keeps you climbing, but never gets too diffcult at 5.9, with a short 10b or 5.9 A0 finish. 

Exasporator (10c)- Might be one of the best routes anywhere, with a perfect 10a finger crack P1 and then a thin 10c Pitch 2 that eases after 30' or so, but never truly lets off. 

Seasoned in the sun (10b)- another great splitter finger crack not to be missed. 

Fern Gully

Good Times (11a) - Sport route that has long balancy moves throughout, but maintain just enough pump to keep it really interesting, and then an overhanging boulder moves gaurds the chains. 

 

Stories by Scott Heinz ( Medical Moose Labs)

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