Yosemite

 

Description: Yosemite is most frequently known for its big walls, but it has climbing of all types.  I made a trip their in the fall of 2015 and early summer of 2016, 

 

1) The Valley - This is the location of the iconic steep big walls, where routes of all lengths and types exist. We got to climb the Nutcracker which has a long history for the valley.  I tend to be very comfortable with 5.8 and some bold moves, but the 5.8 mantle at the top is not to be taken lightly.

 

2) Toulumne Meadows, which is a good spot on warmer days since its located in the alpine, is recognized by domed features with lots of slabbier routes and then some dramatic alpine peaks. 

 

During my first trip, we had the chance to spend a day in each location and my take-away was that the climbing was great, routes are a bit stiff with some in your face bold run-out sections, and the rock was polished in many areas.  We battled smoke from forest fires  and rain which limited what we could get on. 

The Second trip Marcy and I road tripped down and spent 4 days in Tuolumne with Matty P and Andrea who were also starting their summer road trip.  My car crapped out on day 1 after making the 16 hour drive, so we had to deal with that and get a bit more creative with our approach using the paid "free" shuttle, lots of hiking, hitch hiking and getting rides with Matt and Andrea.  We were still able to get in 2 really nice hikes, three climbs and some good relaxing time.  ( see stories post about the car if interested)

 

Trip 1 Highlights were:

 

West Country : Stately Pleasure Dome

Nutcracker w/5.9 start

Cathedral Peak

Trip 2 Highlights :

Lamber Dome - NW Books 5.6 - Pitch 1 is classic with a few sections requiring different styles of climbing

Piywack Dome - Zee Tree 5.7 - the first 10' to bolt 1 is the crux, and then the 5.7 upper pitch is also interesting - bring a #4

Dozier Dome - Holdless Horror 5.6 - Amazing pitch that goes the whole length of the dome- requiring the full range of crack technique from thin fingers to chimney

Cloud's Rest - Hike 

 

 

 

Stories by Scott Heinz ( Medical Moose Labs)

  • Twitter Classic
  • Facebook Classic