Rattletale 3-pitches 5.10b

 

Rattletale is a classic three pitch index route that has three fairly distinct and fantastic pitches with different styles of crack climbing.  The first pitch starts off a bit dirty but goes into a thin finger crack 5.9.  After a few moves in the thin crack widens slightly and the face offers more options.  I protected the top-out move with a #4 that probably isnt' necessary and the rest of the pitch requires a standard rack.  The next pitch is a slightly overhanging hand crack that goes at 2" just about the whole way - 5.10b.  Someone more comfortable with spacing gear can likely do it with about 2- Camalot # 2's and 2- Camalot # 3's but I might recomment triples of the #2's if you place gear a bit closer. Its sustained pump makes it difficult and if you venture out of the crack to layback, getting back in can be a challenge.    The top pitch starts as a fantastic stem and works into a great hand crack for a few moves before coming to chains. It requires a standard rack. it's easiest to be lowered from here and belay from the bottom of the pitch to avoid and awkward sit and spin, but there are other descent options as well. The route can then be rapped.  

 

 

Stories by Scott Heinz ( Medical Moose Labs)

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