Chianti Spire - Rebel Yell

 

Description:  Chianti Spire is quickly becoming a classic as more and more climbers are getting into 5.10s in the alpine.  I admittedly relied heavily on Gabe to cary us on his shoulders and lead the bulk of the hard climbing, since I haven't been staying fresh with my climbing. It started on the pitch 2 chimney section when I was humbled by the lack of pro and bold climbing and handed over my lead.  I found this section to be the mental and technical crux of the route, although each pitch aside from 1 and 3 have real challenges.  We did the original start, but if I do it again I would do the alternate to avoid that slightly dangerous section where the crux move are well above you last piece in an awkward chimney.  Pitch 4 is an ultra classic.  I have big meaty hands and was following so found it to be challenging, but reasonable with enough rests to get through. It is a mix of powerful and delicate moves that were totally epic.  We rapped down the face and the final 2 rope rappel was on some old nuts that should be replaced with something better, but there are limited options aside from bolts. 

 

Stories by Scott Heinz ( Medical Moose Labs)

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